Posted by admin | Under D80 SLR
Saturday Nov 28, 2009
Im starting to hop in to photography, I travel a lot and likes taking picture. Wide views, Models type etc. im tired of my compact sony cybershot.
The price of D40 is $700 and the D80 is around $1000
I know their both 10+ Mega pixels.
Is there really a lot of diffenrence>? Can I use the D40 SLR with any kind of lense available for Nikon?
I need some good advice here, I dont really wanna order in the actual shop due to their so overprice.
You are actually talking about the D40X.
If the money is not an issue, get the D80.
The D80 has 11 autofocus zones and they can be grouped for dynamic focus while controlling the general area of interest. The D40 only has the three on the horizontal. Nikon claims that this would not make any difference to most users, but I have found the top and bottom zones quite helpful and would not like to do without them.
The D80 has an LCD on top of the camera for status, which the D40 does not, but the D40 uses the 2.5" rear LCD for camera status between shots. This is certainly easier to read, but I don’t know how it is to live with day-to-day, as I have never done this. It probably makes sense.
There is no depth-of-field preview on the D40, but there is on the D80.
There is no exposure bracketing and no white balance bracketing on the D40, but there is on the D80.
The D40 will not autofocus with some older Nikon lenses and the D80 will. If you do not have some lenses from a Nikon film camera already, though, this would not be a problem for you.
I hate to see people slam the camera because it can’t autofocus with older Nikon lenses. It is true that there is a "slight problem" with older Nikon lenses not autofocusing on the D40, but if you do not own a bag full of older lenses, it is not going to be a problem. It is barely a problem anyhow. If you check www.nikonusa.com for "AF-S" lenses, which are ALL 100% compatible with the D40, you will find 23 lenses, including 7 "VR" (vibration Reduction) lenses and one true macro lens with "VR". There are another 25-plus lenses in the current catalog that provide all functions except autofocus as well as many (possibly dozens) "out of print" lenses that will work just as well. In addition, although these lens will not autofocus, most of them will still give focus confirmation. From the D40 manual: "If the lens has a maximum aperture of f/5.6 of faster, the viewfinder focus indicator can be used to confirm whether the portion of the subject in the selected focus area is in focus. After positioning the subject in the active focus area, press the shutter release button halfway and rotate the lens focusing ring until the in-focus indicator is displayed." (See http://www.members.aol.com/swf08302/nikonafs.txt for a list of AF-S lenses or see http://www.nikonians.org/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=16715&forum=DCForumID201 for even more…)
The D80 is larger and may feel better in your hands.
Posted by admin | Under D80 Camera
Saturday Nov 28, 2009
my dad wants to buy a nikon D80 of this man and he is going to see it today but he want to know how you can tell it the camera is real or fake?
I agree, your chore is to determine if the camera is stolen … if the "man" has all the boxes, accessories and CD’s then go for it. If it is the camera only with none of the components that come with a new camera, then it may well be stolen property.
I have had a 35 mm SLR Nikon forever but the digital is a little overwhelming!
The fastest and least frustrating way is to take a class in photography using your 35 mm SLR.
The cool thing about DSLR’s is you can directly transfer you skills using a 35 mm SLR to the new digital SLR. The convenience of not having to change film to use a different ISO or colour balance is perhaps the most helpful of all the features of an digital camera
As far as learning to use the added features found on DSLR’s, just use your users manual and try one at a time until you fully understand how it works and when to use it.
Look on page 84 of your manual … this can be a fun tool when you mount your camera on a tripod and shoot multiple exposure on the same frame
On thing you may find convenient is to download the users manual to your computer and then use the Adobe Acrobat "find" feature to search for specific features in the manual
I saw the review on www.dpreview.com and the Canon had much sharper image quality. I was wondering if it were possible to sharpen the image of my Nikon D80 to the sharpness of the Canon Rebel XTi’s sharpness?
just want to make sure. So you can make it as sharp as the Canon?
when I say sharpen I mean crisp detailed images rather than somewhat blurred which you see on that site i posted.
If you really want to do this…
Go to P,A,S or M mode.
Go the Shooting Menu.
Go to Optimize Settings.
Go to Image Sharpening.
Try a +1 or +2 setting for a while and see what you think.
While you are there…
Go to Tone Compensation.
Choose +1 or +2 for more contrast.
You can play with color saturation, but you are not ready to make such a decision that will affect ALL of your images yet.
While you are there…
Choose your color mode.
Some people think it’s cool to use the Adobe RGB color space. This gives you a broader range of tones than sRGB, but it also softens the image, in my experience. sRGB is the default setting and I doubt you would have changed this already, but if you have, change it back to sRGB and see what you think.
I have a few observations, as you might expect by now.
1. ALL of these adjustments can be made in post-processing. I prefer to handle these issues that way. It’s not like I am shooting in RAW, but if I alter my sharpness, etc., I can never go back to the native image if I want some different effect.
2. What lens do you have? Are you comparing lenses or cameras when you look at images? The sample images are taken with a 50 mm 1.8 lens and THAT is one sharp as a tack lens. A prime lens will always be better than a zoom lens, unless you are comparing a real piece of crap prime to a primo zoom.
3. You have had your camera a week now. You will like it more once you learn more about it, even if it is at a cerebral level where you don’ tquite realize you have learned something.
4. I don’t really see much difference in the sample images. It’s a trade-off. Look at the lower ISO images where there is no noise reduction kicking in. I don’t see too much difference. In some side-by-sides, the Nikon even seems sharper. In some, especialyl the paper clips, the Canon seems to actually have some fringing which would give the appearance of additional sharpness. The summary on this page says that Canon has chosen to increase sharpness in the processing, which means you can do the same in your D80.
5. If you really think you should have bought the Canon, see if you can make a swap and be done with it.
I’ve said a few times that I sense you’re uneasiness about spending this kind of money on a camera. If you bought the Canon, you’d be moaning about not having the spot meter or you’d complain that it was too sharp. Or more likely, that it was not as sharp as you thought iw would be based on smaples shot with a prime lens. "If only" you had bought a D200… Well, then, you’d wish for a Canon 5D.
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Additional info:
I have the infamous Popular Photography "10 MP dSLR Shootout" issue at hand. When testing for image quality, which includes resolution, color accuracy, and digital noise, all five cameras were fitted with the manufacturer’s own 50 mm f/1.4 lens. Shots were taken under exactly the same lighting conditions with the cameras set at ISO 100 and in the highest-quality, highest-resolution JPEG format.
"Most of the variations in color, contrast, and detail are the result of JPEG image porcessing. In all cases, RAW images from these cameras exceeded JPEG quality, and differences between images became less apparent."
The test rankings for image quality and [editted] comments were:
Rank No.1 Overall: Nikon D80. "Overall color accuracy was excellent, especially in purples and reds. Yellow flowers showed greatest detail in highly saturated aras, more so than in other cameras. Contrast was normal with very high detail in shadow and highlight areas. Resolution and image detail were superb."
Rank No.3 in the studio and No.2 in the lab: Canon Rebel XTi. "Excellent color accuracy overall. Red flowers were just slightly orange in appearance, but yellows were bold. Slightly lower contrast softened the image very slightly and dropped color saturation in purples, but it helped improve shadow and highlight detail. Resolution and image detail were the least of all cameras in JPEG setting."
Short interim summary:
Nikon – "Resolution and image detail were superb."
Canon – "Resolution and image detail were the least of all cameras in JPEG setting."
Comments:
Nikon – "Given the superb noise suppression, it maintains an Excellent image quality rating through ISO 3200. At lower ISOs, the D80 produced the highest resolution numbers of these five tested cameras. As the ISOs increased, the aggressive noise reduction diminished resolution to the point that the Canon Rebel XTi had slightly better resolution at ISO 800 and above. But the Nikon could still resolve an average of about 1750 lines at ISO 3200.
Canon – "Excellent image quality up to ISO 400; at ISO 800 and 1600, increased noise (ranked Moderately Low) dropped overall rating to Extremely High.
MY OWN Conclusions:
Popular Photography says that the D80 tests sharper than the Canon XTi when using comparable lenses. This tells me that the sensor is doing its job. If you want more sharpness at higher ISO ratings, you have the flexibililty of setting noise reduction to Normal, Low, High or OFF. You can also set sharpness, etc., as discussed earlier in this answer.
Posted by admin | Under Nikon D80 Lens
Saturday Nov 28, 2009
Which sizes are best and for what specific situation. Also what are the best extended digital flashes?
Thanks Kindly
how about an 18-55mm lens?
If you’re not the primary photographer, then the 18-55mm lens will work fine. Having a bit more reach, like 85 to 105mm at the long end would allow you to get more candid shots.
If you are the primary wedding photographer, you will need a better lens or other lens(es) to supplement the 18-55. The last wedding I went to, the photographer was using an 18-55 on one body, and a good 50mm prime on the other body. She always worked close so she really didn’t need anything more than 55mm.
Nikon does make a nice 24-70 f/2.8 lens, but it’s $1800.
For flashes, SB600, SB800, or SB900. You will need a diffuser for the flash to improve the lighting. If you haven’t played with an external flash, practice and read up on how to creatively use the flash. Direct flash creates unpleasant images.
I’ve had a D60 for about two years now, and as I’m getting a little more into photography, I’d like to find a new body, either a D80 or a D200 (within a year or so).
I have a number of older lenses that didn’t AF with my D60 for lack of an on-board motor. So that’s my first concern.
Other items of importance to me include weight and feel, size of image sensor, and to a much lesser degree, the size of the viewfinder, as the viewfinder on my D60 seemed much too small.
As a non-pro enthusiast, I’d like something that has more control over all manual settings. What would be the better bet for me- a D80 or a D200?
Thanks in advance.
The D200 runs a faster frame rate about 6 fps versus 3.5 fps. It’ll shoot up to 8 or 9 a second with the battery grip installed. It also handles high ISO better than the D80. They both have an internal focus motor. Just so ya know, the D80 has basically been discontinued thanks to the D90. You may or may not be able to find it new in a year or so; hard to day. On the plus side, the price has come down to about the $800 mark now. The best thing to do would be to handle both of the cameras to check how they handle & check the navigation on the menus also.
These answers are just ridiculous, then again.. So is this question.
BOTH the 450D and the D80 have expensive lenses and cheap lenses and expensive flashes and (can you guess?.. That’s right!) cheap flashes.
Why, after buying a DSLR you should then buy cheap accessories for it is beyond me. The camera body itself is not important, ALL the camera bodies available today will produce incredible pictures and it is the accessories that matter. You can not just buy cheap lenses and crappy third party knock off accessories after shelling out for a body, the lenses are the most important part of the camera and you can expect to pay many times what you paid for the body.
If you can not understand this simple concept then you are far better off not buying a DSLR and buying a £100 P&S instead.
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Additional: I guess I did put it a little harshly, but questions such as this simply require a little common sense. It surprises me how many people just decide to buy a DSLR without understanding just what is required afterwards (learning curve, accessories) and it is often the reason why they end up gathering dust on a shelf or on eBay soon after. Oh well each to their own I suppose! )
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